
Thirty-three kilometers from Xiaguan and by the side of Erhai Lake lies the town of Xizhou. Historically, it was a military fortress of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom as well as the Nanzhao King’s temporary palace. Because of its favourable geographical situation, before 1949 the town used to be a commercial center that was home to more than 140 national capitalist families including the successful Yan, Dong, the Yin and Yang families. In recent years, streets and roads have been widened, new markets have been established, and a scene of prosperity prevails. In 1988, one of the Yang family’s compounds was opened to foreign visitors and was called "Xizhou Tianzhuang" (Countryside Villa at Xizhou) by the Tourist Bureau of Dali Prefecture.
Xizhou traditional houses are built in typical Bai style, called "Sanfang Yizhaobi", which is a courtyard rooms on three sides and a screen wall on the remaining side. Another Bai architectural design is called the "Sihe Wutianjing", which is composed of one big courtyard with four smaller ones at the four corners of the main one. Xizhou Town is composed of more than 88 compounds of this kind. Some have several yards and some have yards within yards. These houses often have painted roofs and pillars, upturned eaves, and "dougong" systems (double bow-shaped brackets on columns supporting upturned eaves), which are unique to the Bai minority.
The dwellings of the ethnic minority of Bai in Dali, Yunnan Province always make a strong impression on the traveler. Gradually, the Bai style architecture came into being. Over many years the Bai craftsmen practiced creating traditional Chinese dwellings, all the while cultivating a breathtaking architectural style to call their own.
Yan's Compound in Xizhou is the most representative of Bai-style residences, about 13 kilometers (8.08 miles) from Dali City. The compound covers an area of about 3,066 square meters (0.76 acres), built around the 1920's. As a whole, it is divided into four parts and each part is cleverly linked together. After visiting this impressive compound, one will ameliorate the admiration for its magnificence and the Bai people's architectural gifts.
Upon entering, one's eyes will fall upon the principal house with it's screen wall and two wings. According to the tradition of Bai-style architecture, the screen wall should face east in order to make use of the early morning sun and reflect the light into the inner rooms. Additionally, the screen wall, adorned with elaborate caligraphy and paintings, is considered as a talisman; the Bai people believe it brings good blessing.
Walking inside, one will see the second and then the third parts, each of the parts is enclosed by four houses with four small rooms built between each of the houses; a unique architectural style in Dali called "sihe wutianjing". The final house of the compound embraces a modern, western architectural style.
"Sandaocha" is a traditional regional tea ceremony consisting of three unique tea flavors, and is an experience not to be missed in Yan's compound. The host begins by presenting a bitter tea which stands for the hardships in life. Then, a sweet tea of sesame and walnut symbolic of happiness in life. Finally, a bitter, sweet, and spicy tea symbolic of pondering life.
The Bai architecture and culture will fascinate the traveler. This stop in Xizhou is one not to be left unexplored!
How to get there: Take the bus of "Dali to Xizhou" and get off at its destination and from there you can walk to the Yan's compound.