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姊妹七辣

“七辣”即糊辣、油辣、辣豆豉、酱辣子、豆瓣酱、辣卤腐、辣牲。“七姊妹七枝花,花开祥云山和坝,一花一色映万家”。说的就是“姊妹七辣”。

  

糊辣讲究的是糊,将干透的辣椒远火慢烤,烤得糊过心后,揉碎与温开水、盐巴、味精、蒜泥、葱米、花椒油等调制成蘸水,蘸食排骨、肉片特别是素味小菜,以不掺杂质的清香纯辣取胜。油辣是用烈油炸干辣粉而成,制作中最讲究的是火候,火太虚炸出来的油辣色红味呛,火太猛炸出来的则又色糊味焦,皆不可取。只有火色适中炸出来的才色泽金黄香味扑鼻。辣豆豉是由豆腐渣发霉后拌干辣粉制成的饼干形小块,晾干后用菜油煎食,油香、豆香、辣香,再加上焦脆的口感,食之使人满口生津。尤其东部山区彝家人,烧酒下辣豆豉,吃得热气腾腾严冬无寒。

  

酱辣子、辣卤腐、豆瓣酱、辣牲在制成程序上相同,都是用其他原料配制后放在陶罐中长期保存,然后启封食用。但因配料各不相同,也就各具风味。酱辣子采用优质鲜辣椒配上等酱油,装罐浸渍七八个月,待辣椒变得油黑发亮而食,其味集川咸与滇辣于一体,咸辣可口。豆瓣酱则以炒大豆为主要配料,大豆与干辣粉用粥质甜白酒拌匀,放存罐中,待大豆辣椒粉变得深红微紫,便可上席。此味多于秋天制存,初夏开坛,是祥云热夏农忙季节,农户解乏去累的理想食品。晾干的臭豆腐与米酒、干辣粉、生姜丝拌于瓮存制成的辣卤腐,淳厚香辣,余味深长。而其又以叶包辣卤腐最佳。肥厚的青菜叶经油渍后,将辣腐料包菜叶中入罐,美其名曰“菜囡囡”,听名便令人三分馋。辣牲以“牲”为配料,在“姊妹七辣”中味独树一帜,切剁得细碎的猪骨、肠肚、猪头肉等,拌烧酒、生姜、辣粉,经年瓮藏,开封时已满罐油汪。入甑蒸熟,酥松如糕,因此又有“辣糕”之美名。


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